The exposure triangle

A new technique for beginners...

Beginners tend to face problems why getting the right exposure. The shot has the perfect composition, perspective and everything, but unfortunately it's not perfectly exposed. Instead of getting frustrated with your camera and cursing, why not learn this technique called The Exposure Triangle? The concept is simple, tweak any one of them to compensate for the other. But first, let's go through what's in the exposure triangle...

The three components in the exposure triangle is:

• ISO
• shutter speed
• aperture

Exposure Triangle

The ISO is the sensitivity of the sensor. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive the sensor will be. But, there are drawbacks from this. Noise, a term of the presence for colour pixels where there should be none, will start appearing. Now, DSLRs these days offer the NR feature(Noise Reduction) but do note that this will degrade your picture quality.

Moving on to the shutter speed. Like our eye, we have to blink. Quite similarly, the camera has to do the same to take a shot. Shutter speed means the shutter of which it opens and closes. The shutter speed itself is a very crucial tool depending on what your subject is. If you're after motion, you'll be needing a slower shutter speed like 1/2 second all the way to 10 seconds. If it's sports, then obviously you'll be needing a (very)fast shutter speed like 1/500 second to catch the action.

Lastly, aperture. Aperture is a term for the size of the lens' hole. The bigger the aperture, the more light enters. Other than the increase of light entering, you'll also get a shallower depth of field or more commonly used as DOF. I love bokeh shots(the isolation of the subject from the background as an effect from the depth of field) as it gives an interesting look to your shot. Getting faster lenses is perhaps the most effective way to compensate. However, do note that primes can come in quite costly especially at the far telephoto end.

From Digital Photography School

Digital Photography School gave a really good example of this technique:

The Window

Imagine your camera is like a window with shutters that open and close.

Aperture is the size of the window. If it’s bigger more light gets through and the room is brighter.

Shutter Speed is the amount of time that the shutters of the window are open. The longer you leave them open the more that comes in.

Now imagine that you’re inside the room and are wearing sunglasses (hopefully this isn’t too much of a stretch). Your eyes become desensitized to the light that comes in (it’s like a low ISO).

There are a number of ways of increasing the amount of light in the room (or at least how much it seems that there is. You could increase the time that the shutters are open (decrease shutter speed), you could increase the size of the window (increase aperture) or you could take off your sunglasses (make the ISO larger).

Ok – it’s not the perfect illustration – but you get the idea.

How does it work?

The concept is simple. Tweak either one of the settings to compensate for the other. Let's say, you are shooting at an ISO of 100, aperture of f/3.5 and a shutter speed of 1/60 second. You need the said shutter speed and your lens' fastest speed is f/3.5 but yet your shot is underexposed. Boost the ISO! That being said, you should know your limitations. ISO performance is usually good until ISO 1,600. Any higher, noise starts popping up.

Conclusion

Investing in an external flash and a fast prime will help you get the perfect exposure without risking the ISO performance or the shutter speed. Right now, the Nikon 50mm 1.8D and 35mm 1.8G is a steal. As for Canon, the 50mm 1.8 EF is very cheaply priced and it's a must for those starting out. Zooms offer versatility but there's a huge price to pay.

Nikon leaks a new AF-S 50mm 1.8G

New 50 1.8?
Two days ago, upon doing my research, I came across people 'foruming' about Nikon's latest 50mm 1.8G. True enough, it wasn't a rumour at all. It was on Nikon's USA site but just recently they removed it; its now a blank page. Glancing the specs, it has 7 elements including one aspherical element in 6 groups (as opposed to 6 elements in 5 groups).

Sharper than before?
Nikon's MTF charts states that this lens is sharper and more contrasty.

50mm 1.8G MTF curve

50mm 1.8D MTF curve

Seems noticeably higher, doesn't it? Let's hope that it is that good.

Wait or just forget it?
I'm not sure how much the actual lens is, or whether it's actually sharper and more contrasty. If not, I rather go for the 1.8D unless the price is reasonably cheap - just like the 50 1.8D.  As Ken Rockwell said, "My only reservation, other than all the plastic, is that when Nikon did this same update to the f/1.4 lens, the distortion actually got worse than the older lenses!"

What a Pro would do

1) Use as few lenses as possible
A pro will use only the important ones or what he/she really needs. Planning is a must for pros as it determines what lens they'll use. Portraits? An 85mm or 105mm. Macro? A 180mm perhaps. Or wedding photography? 35mm and 50mm.

2) Plan ahead
How do you think pros get to their work place so fast? Well duh, they plan - in advance. If they're shooting for an event, they usually do their research like the venue, the best way getting to the place, the time and so on. The whole point of doing this is to ensure that you get those 'wow' shots instead of just stoning at a corner wondering.

3) Stay focussed and sharp
Because you're a pro, people expect you to take pictures and do your job instead of slacking and stoning. Being blur in an event is an obvious no-no. Maybe for an enthusiast but not for a pro.

4) Show your 'pro' skill
Well, this is more of a should than a would. But anyway, since you're a pro why not show your skill? Not show off, dude. Post your shots on sites like Flickr perhaps and people might just praise you if they are good shots.

5) He/She is always out of the box
Pros generally should think out of the box. That's how they get shots that stand out from the others. If one is able to change the composition as well as the lighting, I think that would make a great image that stands out from others. Since everyone has creativity, its a matter of how creative you are.


Conclusion
Obviously a beginner can't be a pro immediately once he takes a camera and starts shooting. You need experience, dude. And time can only be one's friend in becoming a pro. Start by taking shots from a different angle and focus more on composition and lighting. Photography is all about creativity. Its just a matter of how creative one is.

What makes a 'pro photographer' a 'pro'?

Yes, yes. People just simply say something that really annoys me some times - Hey look! There's a pro photographer there with his DSLR! Are you really a pro with the gear you have or is it the skill that counts? Go to YouTube, and you'll find a whole lot of users buying pro gear, but some how or rather they aren't pros. I find it a bit odd. Things aren't were they supposed to be. But to me, I feel pros are those who have skill.

One who is able to shoot with two primes or so, and still get amazing pictures - that's what I call a pro. To me, the more gear you have, the more 'incompetent' you are. Don't get me wrong; there are called pro gear for a reason. And buying more and more lenses isn't going to help, either.

To me, a 35mm and a 85/105mm is enough for any photographer to shoot almost anything. The 35 can handle wide angle and street or candid photography whilst the 85/105 will just handle everything else; macro, telephoto and portrait photography.

Canon 600D: Is it worth it?

600D is one of the budget DSLRs that has just been announced by Canon. It looks exactly the same. It performs exactly the same. And, it feels exactly the same. And the price ain't cheap - Canon says the price is around RM2,500. Its not that much more expensive than the Canon 550D which is also another great alternative for beginners.

Canon 550D - ignore those gold trims, they're originally white

Canon 600D - not much different to the 550D

Seeing the specs sheets, there really isn't that much difference between the 550D and its successor, the 600D.

Similarities

• 18 megapixel CMOS sensor
• DiGiC 4 processor
• ISO range of 100-6,400(expendable to 12,800)
• Burst rate of 3.7 frames per second
• Supports SD, SDHC, SDXC format cards
• Full HD 1080p movie recording

Differences

• Minor movie recording tweaks
• Tilt-and-swivel screen

Final impressions...

The 600D is like a baby 60D copying most of its features. Canon's moving to the video camera side, focusing more on video but also providing that awesome 18 megapixel shooting experience. 

Would I buy it?

No. I'd save up for lenses and other accessories. HD recording is a nice feature to have. But seeing that I'm a photographer and not a videographer, I wouldn't want to buy a camera which I won't use. The 550D has proved to be a remarkable budget DSLR. As for the 600D, it might be a worthy successor. I see no reason why current 550D users should upgrade unless they really want those video tweaks Canon just added.

Why I chose Nikon

I chose Nikon. And I'm proud to say that. Some chose Canon. Others chose Sony. Its all down to personal preference. We can't all go around discriminating other brands. But heck, I do it :P Anyway, going back to the topic. There are very good reasons why I became a Nikon-ian instead of a Canon-ian(sounds weird) or a Sony-ian.

1) It can practically see in the dark

Nikon DSLRs are just magnificent. They can literally see in the dark. Compared to Canon's or Sony's, the ISO performance on Nikon's are god-like. I usually shoot at ISO 800, but if I'm forced to(since I don't have an external flash and a fast prime at the current moment) shoot at high ISO's, I will. Of course, ISO 6400 will give you very noisy results but its better than Canon's ISO 6,400. Most of my night candids are shot at ISO 3,200 max.

2) Ergonomics master

Pretty gay way of saying it. To me, Nikon's are just perfect when it comes to ergonomics. Especially the higher end models, like the D7000, D300s, D700, etc. Their grip is just perfect. Should you use a pro lens like the 24-70mm f2.8 things just gets better and better. One of the main reasons why Nikon gets my vote when it comes to ergonomics is that they placed the thumb dial at the back of the camera opposed to the oddly-placed finger dial at the top of the camera. This makes one handed operations much easier on Nikon DSLRs. Buttons are placed more sensibly on the Nikon. Canon's previous layout was OK, but they've changed them to a more, weird layout(look at Canon's latest lineup of DSLRs).

3) Brilliant wireless flash system

Nikon uses this wireless flash system called Creative Lighting System(CLS). Not sure about Canon's wireless flash system, but heard that there were problems or it was just too sophisticated for rookies. For Nikon, its quite simple. First, make sure your camera and flash supports this feature - D70, D70S, D80, D90, D7000, D200, D300, D300s, D700, D3, D3x, D3s and SB600, SB700, SB800, and SB900. The D3000, D3100, D5000 and SB400 won't support this feature, sorry guys ):

4) Sharp lenses

Yes, Nikon does have a few sharp glasses. I was actually surprised by how sharp it was at the price you were paying for. The 18-55mm VR is a good example. As a kit lens for the cheaper bodies, it costs only RM400+. However, in terms of sharpness, it rules. We're not talking about build quality, or the smoothness of the bokeh here. One of the main reasons why I hate it, is because of its autofocus speed. Its so slow, it struggles to focus on my brother when he rides on his bike(yes, its very slow). I do get him focussed in shots, but rarely.

5) Compatible with lenses since 1959

Call me a Nikon fanboy, but Canon only supports lenses till 1985 - the great divide. That's when Canon decided to flush their previous system and all the lenses before it. That's when they came up with EOS(Electro-Optical System). And because Nikon didn't flush their system like what Canon did, we Nikon users get to choose from a wide variety of lenses. But do note that lenses at that time are manual focus(meaning you have to focus yourself) and you need a camera that is able to meter these lenses. The D200, D300, D700, D3, D3x, D3s will meter these lenses.

Now you have 5 more reasons why you should shoot Nikon (:

How to make your lens SHARPER

Sharpness. Yes, all everyone cares about is sharpness. And its one of the gimmicks camera manufacturers usually use against us innocent consumers. 'Softness' is a term that basically means that it isn't sharp. Usually, lenses will have this softness at different focal lengths. Depending on the lens, different lenses will have different amount of softness. Even huge, large, heavy pro lenses still do have softness like the Nikkor 24-70mm f2.8.

But, if you do know how to use a lens, a cheap RM300+ lens might be sharper than that pro lens you're dreaming about. It all depends on whether you know how to use your lens or not. If you're given the 24-70mm f2.8 and if you don't know how to use it, softness still might appear.

Okay, cut to the chase. How do you sharpen your lens??
Simple. It should work for all lenses. Cheap, old, expensive, you get the point. Anyway, its quite simple. Simply, stop your lens down to two stops. Depending on what aperture your lens has, it's usually in the f7.1/f8 zone unless you're buying fast zooms or primes with apertures at f1.4 - f2.8. Check your manual for further reference.

Should you buy a sharp lens?
Well, its hard to decide. I don't do lab tests. And my tests are usually not-so-scientific tests. But what I can say is, it does help. But should you buy an expensive lens over a cheap lens that has almost the same optics? Not necessarily. You're most probably paying for the better build quality, bokeh, less distortion, etc.

Should you buy third party gear

Third party gear/accessories have been quite popular recently. I think its a must have for beginners, since they're new to photography and they just want something cheap and practical. Pros use these too, but seldomly. Don't get me wrong, third party brands are there for a reason - to provide a cheaper alternative than the already expensively-priced manufacturer's lenses. Take the Tamron 70-200mm f2.8 for an example. I'll compare it to Nikon's equivalent Nikkor 70-200mm f2.8. In terms of price, the Tamron is definitely cheaper which makes it a no-brainer. The Tammy(a nickname for Tamron's lenses) is priced around RM2,800 whereas the Nikon is priced at RM8,200. Yes, the numbers don't lie. The Tammy is about cheaper than the Nikon. Quality-wise, they're practically almost the same. Better yet, Tamron is said to be sharper than Nikon and its labelled Macro which allows it to get up close to get macro shots(not 1:1 reproduction ratio, sadly).

How to choose your laptop/notebook/netbook

Choosing your laptop/netbook is a very time consuming thing. You wouldn't want to waste your hard earned cash, right? Follow this guide and you might save your hard earned cash.

Be sure of what you want
This is probably the most obvious thing, is to make sure what you want? Are you for complete mobility? If you are, then get a netbook or a 13" laptop. But be sure that you're getting a slower processor and limited RAM. Usually, people who get netbooks only wish to surf the Internet, do their Facebooking and chatting. 'Cause that's what its made for.

Or maybe you're for everyday computing? Its more powerful than a netbook. I have one, and it pretty does what I want it to do. Since I'm not a hardcore gamer, this will do for me. And I do photo editing too. It does get a bit sluggish some times, but its a cheaper alternative than another type of laptop which I'm gonna talk about later.

To use or not to: Conversion Lenses/Filters

Money ain't something everyone has. Let's face it. Photography is an expensive hobby. A very expensive one. Be ready to invest, if you're looking for lenses. 'Cause not all lenses are cheap, some are priced sky-high. If you shoot Nikon, you should've known this lens - Nikon 600mm f/4G. If you haven't, that's the lens on the left). Yeah, the price stated isn't fake. If I'm not mistaken, its the most expensive lens Nikon has made. Malaysia's market price for this lens is around RM31,950. Yes people, you can buy a Proton instead!

Anyway, this post isn't about that lens. Filters, have been around for quite some time. And filters are useful. I have two, a Polarizer filter and a UV filter. And they're both very helpful. But have you heard of a different type of filter? Yes, it still screws at the end of your lens. These different type of filters are usually called conversion lenses. They convert your lens into a different type of lens. Its like this: I have a 60mm and I use a 0.45x wide angle conversion lens. I'll get a 27mm lens(60mm x 0.45). You save thousands and thousands of cash if you'd just buy filters instead of actual lenses. There are fisheye, and telephoto conversion lenses too. They work the same way, screw the filter in front of the lens, and you're done. To find what focal length you're gonna get, just multiply the filter's (number)x with your current lens' focal length.

How to choose your tripod

Night as well as landscape photographers require a lot of stability to get that perfect shot. Buying an expensive camera system and buying a cheapo tripod isn't going to work. First off, cheapo tripods tend to be weaker. It won't withstand a lot of weight and therefore might not exactly keep your camera steady. Looking for a tripod can easily be as time consuming as choosing your camera system. Tripods are divided into two main parts, the head and the legs of the tripod. Just like your camera, doing research isn't IS a must as it can determine what you're going to buy. Companies to recommend? Manfrotto, Benro and Bogen(currently owned by Manfrotto) are known for their specialty as tripods and monopods companies.

The first thing you need to do is to check how much weight your tripod is going to bear. Bear in mind that if it can't hold that much weight, the tripod's legs might bend. Usually, it's just the camera body, the lens and the flash gun. A good system like mine would weigh not more than 3 kg. But that's because my system is all compact and lightweight lenses. If you're getting a really long or heavy lens, your tripod will have to withstand around 6-8 kg. And I'm not just talking about the legs of the tripod, even the head has should withstand the weight. If its too heavy for the head, and if you're using a ball head(more on that later) you might have to buy another one to replace it. There are a few types of tripods to choose from(depending what type of camera you're using). If you're using a compact, then a pocket-sized tripod will do the job. If you're using a DSLR, then you have to find a medium sized tripod or a heavy duty tripod depending on what you shoot.

Why primes cost more than zoom lenses

Many photographers know the term 'prime' and 'zoom' lenses. What they don't know is why primes tend to cost more then zooms. Before we go any further, let me explain what are prime and zoom lenses.

What's a zoom lens?
You already might know what zoom lenses are. They basically zoom in and out giving you more versatility. Beginners usually get these, since they're completely new to photography. Don't take this the wrong way, pros use these too. They replace the whole bag of lenses. Instead of bringing 8 prime lenses, why not bring one lens to cover that specific range?

Backpack/Rucksack or Slingbag??

Hi there (: just did some research on DSLR bags, and there are so many to choose! After doing a lot of research, I've finally limited to these two bags. The first one is the Kata DL Hybrid 537. Its a sling type bag which is a big plus. I can keep taking photos and changing lenses without any problems. But it doesn't support a laptop compartment and I really need one for travelling because that eliminates that one extra, unnecessary bag. And it can only hold up to 2 lenses, which is a big bummer. It supports a tripod compartment which makes this such a great bag.

Kata DL Hybrid 537

Canon or Nikon?

Canon and Nikon have been dominating the DSLR market. And there's the question,"Which DSLR brand is the best? Canon or Nikon?". Both Nikon and Canon cameras are as good as each other. You can't just follow your friends to determine which brand you're going to use. YOU have to choose it yourself. But of course, if someone were to pass their gear on to you, you won't have a choice. But what if, no one was going to pass their gear on to you?

Canon and Nikon dominating the DSLR sales(Canon gaining sales in mid 2005 and Nikon getting back at its game at the end of 2007)

Choosing your photography gear

Picking up photography is really addictive. That's how I got into photography. I actually started out with a Nikon Coolpix L18. After taking a few shots with this camera, it wasn't that good. Don't get me wrong, its a great camera to begin with. Especially at its price range(you can get it for $90/RM400-500 off eBay). Anyway, the camera system consists of :

• the camera body
• the lens
• flash